Merry Christmas!

              Beautiful displays of pansies, kale and cabbage line yards and entryways. Sasanquas are in full bloom while camellias are starting to bloom. Hollies are loaded with red berries, giving that lovely holiday look. The last of the leaves are falling while winter flowering plants are starting to bloom in full force, and Christmas is upon us.

Winter can be a stunning time of flowers and color if your landscape is balanced properly. Now is a great time to look at those dynamics of winter interest in your yard to see what can be done to make your landscape more appealing during the winter months. Remember, in our planting zone, fall and winter are the best times of the year to plant hardwood shrubs and trees.

           

Evaluate your yard for winter interest, and tie up any loose ends on that fall check-list. It’s time to get the last of the work load done so you can sit back and enjoy Christmas. Clean up the last of the leaves, pine straw if it’s not done yet, and put up some Christmas decorations. If you haven’t finished your fall yard chores yet, you are not too late, especially with this warmer weather. Be sure to set your irrigation to once a week, and the start time to during the day. By the end of December, we usually start to get enough rain in combination with cold weather that you can turn your system entirely off.

           

Now you can enjoy the holidays and the simple things in life. If there is anyone you’ve been putting off calling or visiting, now is a great time to do so. Think of those family members and friends that truly mean a lot to you, yet life has somehow put you out of touch. Whether it’s from moving away, working too much, or even a past disagreement, don’t put it off any longer. Time is flying by and will not stop for anyone.

         

Let’s also not forget what Christmas is all about. It’s not about who gets or gives the best gift, or who has the fanciest Christmas party. Christmas is about the birth of Jesus, and spending time with family and friends. It’s about coming together and helping those who might not be as fortunate as you and I. Let’s try not to lose track and miss the true enjoyments of this time of year. From our home to yours- God Bless and Merry Christmas!

November is here, Time to buckle-down for Winter

            We here at Wise Nurseries are excited to bring you the first of many newsletters to come! Our newsletters will keep you posted on seasonal garden and yard tips, along with what’s going on at the Garden Center.

           

November is the month you will want to prepare for winter in your yard. If you have any perennials, citrus, bananas or tender, tropical plants, mulch them heavily after the leaves have fallen off any surrounding trees, but before the first heavy frost. This way, you don’t have to be worried about cleaning leaves off your freshly spread mulch or pine straw. This method will make life easier for you, especially if you are putting out a large amount of pine straw or mulch to get your place ready for the holidays.

           

Do not trim your perennials back until they are well frost bit. Keep dead heading your mums as they brown out, and they will continue to bloom until first frost. If you cover them during the first few light frosts (depending on the weather this year), you can keep them blooming until a hard freeze.

As far as pruning evergreen shrubs that are still overgrown, it is a good idea at this point to NOT trim them until spring. Trimming now will promote tender new growth that will get frost bit and severely damaged during a freeze. The prime time to trim deciduous plants and trees will come later in the winter.  

           

If you did not put a time-released fertilizer in the ground when you planted pansies, cabbage and other winter annuals, you will need to feed them at least bi-weekly with a liquid fertilizer such as Miracle Grow or fish emulsion. It is too late in the season to put out granular fertilizers around shrubs and trees. If you have an evergreen that shows signs of malnutrition, you can try giving it doses of liquid fertilizer, but you will get the best results if you wait until spring and give it something much more substantial.

           

It is not too late to plant winter annuals such as snapdragons, pansies, cabbages and kale. The ground is still warm enough to see good growth before it gets too cold. Remember that these annuals will flower throughout the entire winter. However, the earlier you get them in the ground, the larger they will grow because the ground is still warm.

           

There is a misperception that spring is the best time to plant, but actually fall and winter is the BEST time to plant hardwood shrubs and trees. The plants are going dormant and therefore they are the LEAST TEMPERMENTAL if transplanted during this time of year. It makes getting them acclimated to their new home less work for you and healthier for the plants. Their water needs are minimal during this time of year, and they will be able to wake up and start to take in their new home come spring.

           
As far as getting some color in the landscape besides your winter annuals, sasanquas and camellias bloom in fall and winter. (They are technically Camellia sasanquas and Camellia japonicas, but we have shortened them to just “sasanquas” and “camellias.”) Now is a great time to get out to the Garden Center and actually see what the blooms look like. Sasanquas bloom fall to winter and camellias bloom winter to spring. They do like a little shade, or at least a break from the afternoon sun, but if you must plant in full sun, sasanquas will perform better than camellias. If you create a balance of both, then you can have blooms throughout the entire fall and winter.

           

Other than that, irrigation systems should be running about twice a week at this point. It is VITAL that before the first freeze, you change the starting time to mid-day instead of early morning. Otherwise you might wake up to an “ice land” in your yard. Once we get our first frost, go to once a week or none depending on how much rain we get. If you have any faucet mounted irrigation timers in the yard, you might want to start thinking of taking them off before a freeze comes. You can still manually turn on the drip or irrigation as needed.

We thank you for your subscription to our newsletter. We are excited about the new program, and look forward to keeping you updated and successful in your landscape. At Wise Nurseries, successful customers are a key factor in our business. We want our customers to feel special and have a personal relationship with us as their plant/landscape specialist. After all, your yard is our yard, and our home is your home.

Plant Profile: Paw paws

Paw paw:

            General info: Paw paws (Asimina triloba) are native to America, and even have a few songs written about them. (“pickin’ up paw paws, puttin’ ‘em in a basket…”) Grows into a multi-stemmed shrub or small tree. Paw paws start out green and shaped like a mango. The ripe fruit is fragrant and tastes similar to a vanilla flavored banana with a custard consistency. The fruit is highly nutritious and is a  good source of Vitamins A and C. Paw paws ripen during fall to a golden-brown color with dark splotches. Almost ripe fruit may be stored in the refrigerator for about two weeks, and then ripened for a few days at room temperature. Usually grows 15-20’ tall and wide. Paw paws also attract Zebra Swallowtail butterflies.

            Landscape uses: Specimen or shade tree

            Ornamental qualities: Naturally pleasing form; Large, lush, tropical looking leaves all summer; leaves turn golden in fall.

            Planting: Perform best in fertile, well drained soil that is slightly acidic. Will not tolerate soggy soil. Prefers partial sun, but will grow in sun or shade, too. Grows as an understory tree in the wild. Plant at least two for cross-pollination. Young trees must be planted in shaded area until at least 2-3 years old.

            Pruning: Requires very little pruning. Remove damaged or dead branches and correct unwanted growth. Occasionally pruning older trees will promote more fruit production. Suckers should be hand pruned while still small.

            Fertilizing/Watering: Keep plants well watered for the first few years to establish a good root system. Grows quickly if mulched and watered during drought conditions. Fertilize in spring and mid-summer.

Plant Profile: Nectarine

Nectarine:

            General info: Nectarines (Prunus persica) are basically a non-fuzzy peach. They are considered a relatively new fruit, although they have been around for at least 2,000 years. The fruit is brightly colored, sweet and fragrant.

            Nectarines can be divided into two categories according to their type of flesh: melting and non-melting. Melting varieties soften as they ripen, and are very juicy. Non-melting varieties stay firm even while ripening. They can also be divided according to how the flesh separates from the pit. Freestone nectarines separate easily from the pit, while clingstone peaches “cling” to the pit.

           

            Landscape uses: Small specimen tree; mixed border.

           

            Ornamental qualities: Showy pink blossoms in spring; long, arching leaves all summer long.

            Planting: Plant in full sun and well drained soil. Early morning sun is important to help dry the leaves and reduce the chance of disease. If necessary, cut off any broken or mutilated roots, otherwise keep root pruning to a minimum. Plant the same depth as grown in the nursery. When the hole is half filled, firm the soil with your feet before filling the rest of the way. Pack the soil firmly. Do not leave a depression around the tree. Water well after planting to help eliminate air pockets.

           

            Pruning: Nectarines need to be pruned into a vase shaped tree with an open center to promote good air circulation and to let sunlight in. This helps reduce the chance for disease, and makes it easier to harvest the fruit. Pruning should be done during mid-February.

First remove dead, diseased, broken, and low hanging limbs. Do not allow the tree to form a dominant central leader. Prune out any crossing braches growing back towards the center, and any vigorous, upright shoots that developed from the inside of the main branches. You can think of the tree being pruned to look like your hand with your palm facing up, cupped, and fingers spread. Pruning may also be done in the summer after fruit harvest.

            Approximately 4 weeks after bloom, thin out the peaches so there is about 6” between each fruit. Removal of excess fruit is necessary to ensure proper ripening and to reduce limb breakage.

           

            Fertilizing/Watering: Fertilize in spring and again in summer. Do not let fertilizer accumulate around the trunk.

Varieties:

            Sunmist: Delicious, sweet, white flesh. Self-pollinating. Melting flesh. Semi-freestone.

            Sunhome: Yellow flesh. Beautiful dark red foliage and ornamental pink blooms in early spring. Self-pollinating. Melting flesh. Semi-freestone.

            Sunraycer: Yellow flesh. Excellent flavor. Good disease resistance. Self-pollinating. Melting flesh. Semi-freestone.

Plant Profile: Pear

Pear:

            General info: Many pears (Pyrus) are self-pollinating, but may produce better if cross pollinated. Plant at least two varieties for cross-pollination. Pear trees typically reach 15-30’ tall and 10-20’ wide. Pears are best and last the longest when they are picked just before they are ripe, and are then allowed to finish ripening off the tree. Pears are one of the most tolerant fruit trees of differing soil and other conditions.

            Landscape uses: Small specimen or shade tree; can be trained as an espalier.

            Ornamental qualities: Showy white blossoms in spring; attractive glossy leaves turn colors in fall.

           

            Planting: Plant in full sun, including early morning sun if possible. (Early morning sun dries the dew from the leaves, reducing the chance for disease.) Plant in well drained soil.

           

            Pruning: Pears tend to grow upward and need early pruning and training to ensure a strong tree. Trim off any branches closer than 18” to the ground, and thin out any crossing, diseased or broken branches and vigorous upright sprouts from the branches. Lower limbs can be tied down to 45 degree angles to help open up the canopy. NOTE: Remove diseased branches as soon as they appear by cutting at least 6 in. below the diseased area. Sterilize your pruning tool after each cut. (Rubbing alcohol or a 1:9 bleach/water mixture works well.) Dispose of or burn the diseased limbs.

           

            Fertilizing/Watering: Fertilize annually in early spring, and again after the fruit has ripened. Supplement water during periods of drought.

Varieties:

            Ayers: High quality pear for the south. Medium size yellow fruit with red blush. Very sweet flavor, no grit. Excellent for fresh eating. Ripens mid-Aug. Needs pollinator. Chill hours: 500-700

            Hood: Yellow-green pear, soft flesh and a sweet, pineapply flavor similar to an Asian pear. Not grainy or bitter. Excellent for fresh eating, drying or pies. High resistance to fire blight. Early bloom. Ripens in July. Need pollinator. Chill hours: 150

            Keiffer: Most widely grown pear of the South. Popular with deer hunters. Large golden colored fruit with a crimson blush. Crisp, juicy white flesh with a coarse texture. Excellent for canning and baking. Pick the fruit and store in a cool place, will sweeten over time as it ripens. Vigorous and very hardy. Ripens Sept.-Nov. Self-pollinating. Chill hours: 350-400

            Moonglow: Medium to large, yellow fruit with a pink blush. Soft texture, sweet taste, no grit. Good fresh or for canning. Ripens August-September. Needs pollinator. Chill hours: 700, 500+

            Orient: Firm yellow fruit with smooth, juicy, sweet flesh. Good for cooking and canning with a mild sweet flavor. Fire blight resistant. Medium to late bloom. Ripens in August. Best with pollinator. Chill hours: 350-400

            Pineapple: Bears heavy crops of large, tart pineapple-like flavored fruit. Good for cooking, canning or fresh eating. Bears at an early age. Fire blight resistant. Ripens in August. Self-pollinating, but produces better with pollinator. Chill hours: 150-250

           

            Shinko: Most fire blight resistant of the Asian pears. Medium to large fruit. Excellent, rich, sweet flavor. Brownish-green pear ripens mid-August through mid-September. Stores well through January.

            Shinseiki: Asian Pear, with crisp, white, crunchy flesh and tasty, mild, sweet flavor. Round, medium sized golden fruit. Best when ripened on the tree. Keeps well under refrigeration after harvest. Originally developed in Japan. Ripens in late July, to mid August. Stores extremely well until March. Bears fruit at a young age. Some resistance to fire blight. Needs pollinator. Chill hours: 400, 350-450